Prague Blog

Just few weeks ago it was 650 years, when the fundamental stone of the most famous Prague monument – the Charles Bridge – was laid down. It happened exactly on 9 July 1357,
at 5:31 AM, during the early morning cockerow.

It´s founder and „father“, our most liberal sovereign Charles IV, Czech and Roman king, would be „in“ in our times. He believed that the exact time of birth is important for the whole destiny of the subject, it´s character and influence on the other world. He let the court astrologers count the best moment of the whole year. And a new bridge for Prague was really necessary, the former Judita´s bridge served out and was taken away by the flash flood.

This construction is connected with many legends, myths and stories, for which one whole library would not be enough. This time I would like to introduce you one legend related to the oldest sculpture of Jan Nepomucky.

This saint man was dropped in a wooden basket from the Charles Bridge into the Vltava river where he drowned just because he refused to give away a confessional secret. One of the king Charles´s wives was mistrusted of having a secret lover. She was going to Jan to the Brevnov monastery for a regular confessions, but he never revealed any secret he had heard in the confession. After his death it was possible to see five stars on the water level. These stars are now decorating his sculpture.

To give honour to his heroic act a white metal crucifix is situated on the bridge, on which visitors and tourists put their hands. They believe this place has a special power for those who touch it. You can try it as well !

This bridge (not only for the legends) has it´s soul. If you are wondering what it means for this construction full of stone to have a soul, try to go there at early morning, for example after your busy night in Prague. The best time to visit it is at about 6 or 7 AM, walk across the bridge, when the city is still sleeping, let the cool morning appeal on you,listen to splashing water and smell the crimpy scent of the river.

The bridge will talk to you silently, about his history and about the whole history of Prague, about the human power and the energy to pass the obstructions during the eternal history. The bridge has a deep soul…Charles IV made his choice well…

During September 14 and 16 the tenth international Collector Fair will be held at Prague´s Vystaviste. This fair is well known among other collector actions in Europe. You can find here mainly stamps, postcards, coins, telephone cards and also minerals and gemstones. This year 220 exhibitors from 35 countries will be presented. Philately will be strongly represented at the fair. Somebody could say that stamp collecting is mainly for old timers, but surveys say something else! Even in this modern times philately has its charm for many young people. And after every collectors’ event the number of them goes up.

Together with important Czech collectors and sellers also firms from Germany, Swiss, Austria, Argentina, Great Britain and many other countries will introduce themselves. Post offices have prepared especially for the fair occasional stamps and you will have the chance to have your letter marked with special rubber stamp. The small exhibition lent by British post museum in London will be also amazing.

The numismatics, which can be also a profitable investment, will offer a wide range of coins from ancient Greece to current gold facing. The coins collecting is increasing mainly due to implementing of Euro, because the collectors like to complete their collections with new coins from European union countries. The Czech numismatic society has prepared an interesting exhibition of Czech coins from medieval times till now.

Minerals and gemstones will be also widely represented. An amethyst geode from Brazil or desert rose from China will surely attract every visitor. You can buy here also necklaces, bracelets or medicinal stones from all fields in the world. The interesting supplement of this section will be the exhibition called Giants with new discoveries of minerals weighing over 70 kg. This fair is intended for public visitors and you won´t regret going there. To get there take a tram from metro station Nadrazi Holesovice on line C and then just dive into the world of stamps, coins and minerals.

If you are tired of sightseeing and you don´t want to spend a break in a smoky restaurant and you don´t have time for a trip to the nature, you can go to the Frantiskanska garden. This green oasis is located in the heart of Prague, near the metro station Mustek. The garden has two entrances, one from the Mustek and the other from Jungmannovo square. If you step out of the underground at the station Mustek, you can visit the famous Prague arcade Svetozor. You can buy here various refreshment and take it away to the garden. You can find here well-known ice cream bar with various kinds of ice cream and fruit cocktails. So now when you are supplied enough with ice cream and hot dog, we can walk into the garden.

Its origin dates to the early medieval times. It was built in monastical gardens style and has the area of 0,6 ha. In the times of its rise mainly medicinal herbs and aromatic flowers were grown here.

The original character of the garden is now completely changed. The garden is connected with about two metres wide footpaths which are bordered by many seats. You can find here a couple of fountains with drinkable water where you can refresh in hot days. In the rear edge is a nice playground for children. The whole space of the garden is filled with well-built trees which are giving a pleasant shade. The green trees are completed with plenty of roses. When they are just blooming you feel like in the fairy tale about Sleeping Beauty.

The other interest of the garden is the stump of the oldest Prague tree – common yew. It is about 400 years old. The only disadvantage of the garden is a frequent visit rate and it is often very busy. Go there and you will find out why is it so!

Do you like stars? Do you like looking up to the sky and watching constellations? But you are disappointed because you see only cluster of stars and do not recognize single constellation. I think it is time to set out on a trip to planetarium.

Planetarium Prague in Stromovka was opened on 20 November 1960. Since 1979 it has belonged to the “Observatory and Planetarium of Prague”. It is the biggest planetarium in the Czech Republic and one of the biggest planetariums in the world. You can see there a large circular hall for 210 people. An artificial sky is 15 metres high and the projection screen is the biggest in the Czech Republic – 843 sq.m. This hall is equiped with modern technology including the most modern laser systems.

Most of their shows are in Czech version, but they offer in English version: “Astrology and Alchemy in the Court of Rudolph II.” and “The Night Sky”. Under the reign of Rudolph II. Prague was the centre of science and art. People believed in power of stars, magic and philosophers‘ stone. You will see how alchemists worked and how composed horoscope for the Emperor. In “The Night Sky” you will see the most interesting constellations which you can watch by naked eye. You can look forward to laser effects. If you want some more informations and reservations contact the planetarium at www.planetarium.cz.

Recently I came across a book called “A book about old Prague” which was written by PhDr. Jiri Horak. It is a book full of short stories from history of Prague and it is so interesting that I decided to translate some of the stories for you. This one is about Petrin observatory.

In 1826 -1843 Count Karel Chotek had a position of the highest Czech burgrave and we can call him a good spirit of Prague. He made a lot of praiseworthy deeds for modernization and development of Prague. One of these deeds had seemed initially trivial, but future showed how its realization was lucky. In 1839 Prague municipality bought not a big space on the top of the hill Petrin near by the church of St. Laurence from St. Vitus’ canonry. They kept a hill of soil piled up so a big hummock appeared. The place was chosen clever and everyone who visited Petrin wanted to see a view of Prague. However the hill seemed to be too low all the same.

The Club of Czech Tourists

In 1888, Vojta Naprstek established the Club of Czech tourists. In the second year of club’s working, they visited Paris. In that time, just finished the Eiffel Tower was the biggest sensation, its height was 321 metres. Participants of the tour were excited. Club’s clear profit from this tour was 1031 golds and 86 kreutzers and they decided that this profit would be the basic deposit for a building similar observatory tower in Prague. They did not solve the place where the observatory should have been, it was clear that it would be on Petrin hill, but they solved the height. 60 metres high observatory with basis 197 metres above surface of Vltava river and 334 metres above surface of German Ocean should have been higher by 34 metres than St. Vitus‘ Cathedral. So the observatory tower started to be built.

The whole construction weighed 175 tons and was made of malleable iron from Kladno and Bohemian and Moravian machine factory in Liben constructed it according to engineers Frantisek Soucek and Julio Soucek. Petrin observatory was opened on 20 August, 1891. It became the most visited place in Prague, mostly by school trips. Under the observatory in Czech tourists‘ pavilion, there were built mirror labyrinth and panoramic picture illustrating fight of Swedes in the Charles Bridge in 1648. Some people, mostly modern poets of the twentieth century, liked the new observatory and belauded it, but on the other hand some people did not like it. For example the director of the National Museum Subert said thet it was the biggest abhorrence built on head of Prague and the professor Ruth, expert at history of Prague and the author of Chronicle Royal Prague said that observatory was not suitable to character of whole surroundings.

Black Friday

But the observatory had its Black Friday. It was on Tuesday 5 July, 1938 when the fire started. The whole wooden covering of upper walkway burnt off. It happened due to electric short-circuit. Petrin observatory was repaired fast but one year after on Thursday 16 March 1939, imperial chancellor Adolf Hitler looked from the window of Prague Castle of prostrate city. Just appointed state secretary of Bohemia and Moravia Karl Hermann Frank stood one step behind him. Hitler’s eyes stopped at Petrin observatory. “Iron construction has to disappear,” said Führer. “It disturbs. The magnificent construction have to be built here which corresponds to significancy of this city.”

But everything was in quite a different way. In 1953 Czech crown disappeared from the top of the observatory and was changed by 20 metres high antenna of the first television programme. First floor was not for public, because there were operators who supported transmission of television signal. But trial period finished in 1990 and television transmitters were moved to a new tower in Mahler gardens in Zizkov. Then Petrin observatory was reconstructed and from 1993 it is available to the public.

This festival has been since its second year a festival of orchestral music. More and more orchestras from abroad appears here. In 1997 there were 14 concerts and since 1999 to nowadays there have been twenty two concerts. In this festival we can see orchestras from BBC, German orchestras like Beethoven Orchestra Bonn, and Berlin ensembles as well as orchestras based in other German cities, Russian symphony orchestras and choirs and world radio orchestras with the first visit in history by the BBC National Orchestra of Wales, the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra, Cologne Radio symphony Orchestra with its principal conductor Seymon Bychkov.

The festival is now in its seventeenth year. You can look forward to Czech music presented by orchestras from abroad and also choric scenes from lesser-known Russian operas from composers like Tchaikovsky, Borodin, Glinka, Musorgskij and Rimskij-Korsakov. One of the biggest world star conductor Valerij Gergijev comes back to festival.

The festival will take place in Prague Rudolfinum, it begins on 12 September and finishes on 1 October. You can get to Rudolfinum by metro A, it is “Staromestska” station, by trams number 17 and 18 and by bus number 133. Since 1 August you can buy the tickets in main box office in Rudolfinum. More information about the festival you can find here.

“A painter paints pictures on canvas. But musicians paint their pictures on silence”.
~Leopold Stokowski

Yes, there is such a bridge in Prague. What a lovely name for a bridge, isn’t it? Well, actually, this bridge has a different name, but not many people use it – Nuselsky most. Everyone calls it The Suicide Bridge instead. Why? I am sure you can derive it yourself…

Nuselsky most is one of the Czech capital’s most important bridges. It provides almost key connection of certain Prague’s districts, plus it carries the underground (red line C). From the architect’s point of view, it is said to be a really extraordinary structure. Unfortunately, I do not understand much of it, but what I have been told is that this bridge was a kind of experiment at that time. If I am well informed, in the world there is just one bridge built in the same way which is still standing. Hmm, is this a good thing or bad thing? I wonder…

The bridge is really fascinating – built in the 70s, is almost half a kilometer long, forty meters high above the ground, overlooking a nice valley, made out of tons of concrete, with the subway running inside. Cool, right? But!

Magnet for suicides

Because of its height, the bridge has been from the very beginning like a magnet for Czech self-murderers. One is clear – the bridge is high enough to ensure the jumper a successful suicide. That is not a nice promotion, is it?

There is no real statistics about the suicides from this bridge. The number is estimated at 300 men since the bridge was completed in 1973 up to now.

Of course there have been attempts in the past to stop the suicides by building up barriers. However, those barriers have proved ineffective – those who wanted to jump down only climbed over them.

High barriers

Nevertheless, new attempt is here and this time it might actually work. Higher barriers have been erected but this time they are curved inward (meaning towards the road). What is more, the top part is made out of a smooth metal (instead of a net) so that it should be impossible for the jumper-wannabe to overcome them – he/she will have nothing to hold on to and get over. The new system has been tested by experienced rock climbers, and – wait to hear this – they couldn’t get over it!

So maybe a new brighter era is to come for the bridge. I hope so, as well as those who live under the bridge.

You can visit this unordinary sightseeing, but please do not try to be the first to overcome the new barriers. Keep in mind those who live under the bridge in a continuous fear that someone might “land” just in front of them. The Suicide Bridge is right next to the subway station Vysehrad (red line C).

Have you ever eaten duck slices on ginger, Thai fish cake or smoked salmon with lentil? You can taste all that at the Prague Food Festival. It is the first public food festival where you can taste the best from 30 best chefs and cooks in the Czech republic. The festival is held in Museum Kampa Atrium & Exterier in Prague 1.

The programme is planned for three days – September 7, 8 and 9. And you will not definitely taste only Czech specialities! You can find here the real sushi or Brazilian meat on sword. The festival offers not only the gastronomic art, but also the best wines, beers, cocktails and cultural programme. You can taste all this for 350 crowns. The ticket is valid for one day and includes the entrance fee and the consummation in a value of 10 Grands – it means 250 CZK. You will be in a romantic park with a view of Vltava river and the Charles bridge. You’ll find yourself among artistic artifacts and unique exhibition of Andy Warhol.

These actions are very popular all over the world. It is a celebration of gastronomy, the art of chefs, food and drinks producers and also the art of architects, painters, musicians and designers which are contributing to the attraction of Prague.

The visitors will have the chance to taste the specialities of Czech, French, Japanese, Thai and Mediterranean cuisine. These delicious food will be cooked by the restaurants which are placed in Top 100 according to the independent opinion poll called Grand Restaurant 2007. To these restaurants belong for example Ambiente, Café Imperial, Kogo, The Sushi Bar or La Provence. This nontraditional gourmet event will be accompanied by precisely chosen music.

Jewish community has always created the important role in Prague’s history. They came to Prague in 960 AD and Prague became the most important Jewish cultural and religious center in Central Europe. Jews worked as merchants and they focused in important trade routes. Their community survived thousand years of natural disasters, pogroms, religious and social persecutions and many ways of injustice.

Now if you wanted to visit former Jewish Ghetto, you would be surprised. Instead of narrow, winding streets with little houses there is newly renovated area in pseudo-historic style and the Art Noveau style built in the first decade of the 20th century. Only the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Jewish Town Hall, and six Synagogues have remained unchanged. In 1994, the Jewish museum in Prague was founded as a non-state organization. Nowadays the Jewish Museum has one of the most extensive collections of Judaic art in the world, containing about 40,000 artifacts and round 100,000 books.

You can visit three tours. In the first tour is the Jewish quarter – interior tour, you can see sights including interiors: Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetery, Jewish Museum and Ceremonial Hall. You will learn something new about Jewish history and heritage. This tour begins at 11 AM and at 2:30 PM. It lasts 2,5 hours, adults pay 550 CZK and students 450 CZK. Tours with interiors are not possible on Saturdays and during Jewish holidays.

Second tour is shorter. It is for visitors who have not enough time. You will see informative tour without interiors: Jewish Town, known first as the Old Ghetto, nowadays as Josefov. Old New Synagogue and Jewish Cemetery. You will learn something about one of the most famous Jewish and Renaissance legends – the story of Golem, a clay monster created by Rabbi Löw (Maharal). You will also visit the Prague Jewish writer Franz Kafka‘s house. This tour begins at 11 AM and at 2:30 PM. It lasts 1,5 hours, adults pay 300 CZK and students 250 CZK.

Third is Terezin memorial tour. It was 18th century military fortress which was turned by Nazis into the only concentration camp on Czech teritory during WWII. There more than 33,000 European Jews died. You will visit the Police Prison, the Museum of the Terezin Ghetto and Cemetery. Tour is organized every day except Mondays and Tuesdays, begins at 9:30 AM and lasts 5 hours. Adults pay 1,200 CZK, students pay 1,100 CZK. If you would like to visit Terezin, it is better to make reservation because of limited availability. Your tickets you can book on: +420 777 069 685.

Meeting point is on the left side of the Watch Tower – Astronomical Clock (the Horologe) on the Old Town Square. Your guide will be holding the White Umbrella and Jewish Ghetto sign. All tours are in English.

At the beginning of the twentieth century Prague got the reputation of a city where a cheap but high-level accommodation is available. There were located many luxurious hotels in big style there. To the most famous belonged Adria on Wenceslas Square, Alcron, Savoy, Palace and of course Imperial. Its rise dates to the times of the beginning of the World War I. The name Imperial prompts that it should not be anything provincial. The construction begun in 1914 and the fame followed very soon. Among the old times Prague VIPs has especially favoured this hotel – famous writer Franz Kafka and also genius music composer Leos Janacek.

The Hotel was during the so called First Republic storied mainly by the donuts war. Don´t worry that you are not reading correctly ! In the entering hall was lying a big dish of one day old donuts. These donuts could be used for throwing by every visitor, and the aim could be anything or anybody.

The Hotel was neglected during the communistic era but in 2005 the owners decided to renew the old glory. Roofs, interiors and fore side have been repaired, as well as the popular coffee house. But the original character of all interiors and exteriors have been preserved. At the entrance welcome you two lions, the ground floor is a unique mixture of wood, glass and marble. The coffee house is decorated by the ceramic mosaic in oriental style. You can´t find here the donuts on the floor any more, but you get it for free with buying a delicious coffee. The best way how to get to the Hotel is a short walk from the metro station Florenc on line B and C. It is situated in the well known street Na Porici.